Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Charmed in Cambodia

I want to travel the world. To savour in my palate the best or maybe the worst of all cuisines. To buy a trinket or two which will remind me I was in that particular place at that particular time in space. To not converse in English or Tagalog (my native tongue). To learn history outside the box and surprise myself that things are beautiful just the way they are.

So let's begin.

 And really...things are still beautiful just the way it is.
Our travel agent booked us at Majestic Angkor Hotel (www.majesticangkor.com, Tel:855-63 969682 to 83) which stood up to its name. The hotel looked like a handsome manor on the outside and the interiors had wooden carvings reminiscent of ancient Khmers and Apsara dancers. Upon arrival, the visual scenery in Siem Reap gives an impression of a laid-back and placid lifestyle.Well almost. New hotels and other establishments are sprouting here and there amidst the rice fields and old-fashioned long sleeved men. Tourism is full of hope in this part of the world. 

So we braved the scorching heat and the ancient city called Angkor Wat found us at last. The libraries on the northern gate were situated separately yet they still manage to appear enticing on its own special way. I can still imagine scholars writing in sanskrit on old forgotten parchments there.
The pavilions depict of Hindu epics like Ramayana and Krishna's victory over the Asuras (vengeful deities or demons) etched on stone. Monkeys were warriors venerated in their culture. And their descendants still roam the vicinity. At this point, I have to confess....I have a thing about stone windows. Too much that I forced myself to stand in between them risking cyanosis and possible respiratory failure just to cover my tummy.
The Apsaras (dancing celestial beauties) were phenomenal. Staring at the sculpt, I still wonder why the design didn't fade much on the bosom....hmmm...in fact, this thought haunted me until One True North and I had to buy a replica made of soap in a souvenir shop downtown called Artisan at almost 30 USD.
We met again that evening, now in the flesh in a rendezvous called Koulen Restaurant where they served a seemingly ordinary spring roll seasoned to perfection and can stand alone without any additional sauce.The famous traditional Cambodian dish 'Amok trei' was digested joyfully before a camera can recover the crime scene. This curried fish rich in coconut milk wrapped in banana leaves was steamed right on the money. Not hot,spicy nor sweet. Just right to satisfy a frustrated cook like me.



The Bayon, however is a different story. Because it shouted of buddhism and narcissism in a resplendent kind of way. This sandstone city was built and dedicated to the compassionate Lokesvara. Everywhere you look, images of the same face would envelop you majestically until the beautiful madness will prove too much to bear. Too much that you have to step back and look again in awe. In awe. And in awe.


It spoke of the long time battle between the Chams (Thai warriors with lotus shaped hair and bows) and the Khmers (flat top hair).



And this is just the icing on the cake. Charmed is an understatement.